Leather is one of the oldest materials humans have used, dating back thousands of years, yet it remains a symbol of style, luxury, and rebellion in fashion today. Its journey from primitive utility to high-fashion staple is a fascinating story that blends culture, craftsmanship, and creativity.

Ancient beginnings: from protection to status

Leather’s history begins at the dawn of human civilisation. Early humans used animal hides not just for warmth but as protection against rough terrain and predators. Archaeologists have discovered leather artefacts dating back over 5,000 years, including leather sandals from ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia.

As civilisations advanced, leather evolved beyond practicality. In ancient Egypt, Rome, and Greece, leather was used for armour, sandals, and accessories, often decorated to show status and power. Roman soldiers, for example, wore leather sandals and belts as part of their uniform, combining function with symbolism.

Trivia: The word "leather" comes from the Old English leðer, which is further derived from Proto-Germanic roots, emphasising how old this material’s significance is.

Middle Ages and Renaissance: leathercraft as art

During the Middle Ages, leatherworkers formed guilds to control the quality and production of leather goods. Leather tanning was a skilled and secretive craft. These guilds protected their tanning recipes closely, often passing them down through families for generations.

Leather was used extensively for clothing such as gloves, belts, and footwear, as well as armour for knights. Leather belts in the Middle Ages were often decorated with metalwork, embroidery, and precious stones. Nobles’ belts were highly ornate, while common folk wore simpler versions.

In the Renaissance, leather craftsmanship became more decorative. Nobles wore gloves dyed in vibrant colours and embossed with family crests.

Vegetable-tanning of leather, which uses natural tannins from tree parts to turn animal hide into leather, first became a regulated industry under the Roman Empire.

Trivia: Catherine de’ Medici, an Italian noblewoman who became Queen of France in 1533, brought a Florentine perfumer with her. He crafted scented leather gloves for her, blending musk, civet, and floral essences to mask the smell of tanned leather. These gloves made an instant impression at the French court and sparked the popularity of gants parfumés (perfumed gloves), which became essential fashion accessories among European nobility.

 

The industrial revolution: leather for the masses

The Industrial Revolution in the 18th and 19th centuries brought mass production techniques and new tanning methods, such as chrome tanning, making leather more widely available. This period democratised leather fashion, extending it from aristocracy to the burgeoning middle class.

Leather work boots became standard for labourers and miners due to their durability and protective qualities. Leather also became central in emerging transport cultures. Early aviators wore thick leather jackets and helmets for protection against wind and cold.

Trivia:

From the 1790s onwards, ordinary soldiers stationed in hot climates began to wear lightweight linen trousers, instead of woollen breeches. In the early 1800s, Arthur Wellesley – the Duke of Wellington – asked his shoemaker to redesign the bulky Hessian boot to fit these linen trousers. The result soon became a fashion trend by 1813 and came to be known as the “Wellington boot”.

20th century: the rise of iconic leather fashion

The 20th century saw leather explode as a fashion statement, influenced by cinema, music, and counterculture movements.

1920s-1930s: Leather handbags and accessories became symbols of sophistication.

Image courtesy: SFO museum

 

In the 1950s, the leather Chanel 2.55 Flap marked a turning point in fashion freedom—it was the first handbag designed for women with a shoulder strap, allowing them to move beyond the limitations of the traditional handheld clutch.

The Chanel 2.55 Flap bag (Image copyright: Chanel)

1950s: Schott NYC introduced the first zippered leather motorcycle jacket—the Perfecto—in 1928. Its fame skyrocketed when Marlon Brando wore it as Johnny straddling a Triumph in The Wild One (1953). The actual jacket (model 618) lacked stars on the epaulettes; those were added to the film. This association led to bans in some U.S. schools and British districts, cementing its image as a symbol of rebellion and youth culture.

Marlon Brando wearing the Perfecto® jacket in The Wild One (Image copyright: Schott NYC)

1970s: The punk movement embraced leather jackets, often customised with studs, spikes, and patches. In the mid-1970s, punk fashion emerged as a rebellious and self-aware style, blending streetwear with anti-fashion attitudes, especially in New York’s Bowery scene and clubs like CBGB.

The Ramones, a pioneering punk band, helped define this look. Known for their matching leather jackets, jeans, and sneakers, they used fashion to present a unified, almost brotherly identity, despite personal differences. Their iconic style—simple yet powerful—became a symbol of the punk movement’s raw, stripped-down ethos, much like how The Beatles defined an earlier era’s look.

Members of the band Ramones donning the popular leather jackets (Image courtesy: British GQ)

Designer Bobby Breslau popularised oversized slouchy “Halston bags” or hobo bags in the mid‑1970s; The New York Times dubbed them “the handbag of the 1970s.” These were often made from soft leather and designed to slump over the shoulder, reflecting bohemian fashion aesthetics.

Model carrying the Halston bag for Vogue, February 1976 (Image courtesy: Sighs & Whispers)

1980s-1990s: Designers like Gianni Versace and Karl Lagerfeld incorporated leather into high fashion — leather skirts, pants, and blazers became runway staples. 

Cindy Crawford in a leather skirt (image courtesy: Fashionista)

In the late 1980s, full leather suits—coordinated jackets and pants—became a symbol of power dressing. Vogue featured ensembles by Yves Saint Laurent and Carolina Herrera, blending luxury leather with structured tailoring.

The '90s introduced patchwork leather—mixing textures, colours, and shades. Popular among neo-soul artists like Erykah Badu and Lauryn Hill, this trend inspired DIY fashion and is now reviving in modern collections.

Leather blazers were a 1990s staple, with Winona Ryder and Gwyneth Paltrow frequently seen in sleek, oversized styles. These mark a shift from biker aesthetic to minimalistic chic, solidified by The Matrix’s influence.

Leather blazer as seen in the Matrix (Image courtesy: Everett Collection via Vogue)

Ethical scrutiny and innovation in the leather industry

As the fashion industry evolved, leather, long prized for its durability and prestige, came under increasing scrutiny for its environmental impact and ethical concerns. Beginning in the late 20th century and accelerating into the 21st, growing awareness about animal welfare and industrial tanning pollution led consumers and designers alike to question the origins and processing of leather goods.

Public attention turned especially toward large-scale livestock farming and the use of harsh chemicals like chromium in conventional tanning. This spurred both criticism from animal rights advocates and innovation within the industry.

Luxury and mainstream brands responded by introducing ethically sourced leather—derived from byproducts of the meat industry, certified humane farms, or eco-tanning processes. Vegetable tanning, a historical method using natural tannins from bark and leaves, regained popularity as a more sustainable alternative.

In 2018, Gucci faced significant criticism and protests from animal rights groups like PETA for its continued use of exotic skins such as python, alligator, and ostrich in its luxury handbags and shoes. The controversy sparked public debates on the ethics of using endangered species for fashion. Under pressure, Gucci announced in 2019 that it would phase out exotic skins by 2019, signalling a major shift in luxury leather sourcing practices.

Image courtesy: Vogue Business

This ethical shift not only influenced consumer habits but also reshaped marketing and design philosophies across global fashion houses, bridging tradition with conscious innovation.

Note: All pampeano products are made from ethically sourced and vegetable-tanned leather.

Modern day: sustainability and innovation

Today, leather faces new opportunities for innovation:

• Sustainable Leather: Brands like pampeano are adopting eco-friendly tanning processes to reduce pollution from chromium and other chemicals traditionally used.

 pampeano’s all-leather Varon travel bag is made from vegetable-tanned brown leather

• Vegan and Lab-Grown Leather: With rising ethical concerns, alternatives like mushroom leather (Mylo), pineapple leather (Piñatex), and lab-grown materials offer cruelty-free options that mimic leather’s look and feel. 

• Luxury Craftsmanship: Despite challenges, traditional leather artisans remain vital, crafting high-end bags and shoes that are timeless investments. Brands like Hermès and Bottega Veneta are known for meticulous leather craftsmanship. Similarly, pampeano, a premium leather accessories brand, champions age-old craftsmanship through its distinctive hand-stitched patterns. These designs are more than decorative—they pay homage to Argentine equestrian culture and help preserve a proud artisanal tradition.

A pampeano leather belt with hand-stitched detailing; each belt takes up to 5 hours to finish

 

Conclusion: leather’s enduring legacy in fashion accessories

From belts to wallets, and bags, and the meticulous handcrafting that brings leather to life, the story of leather in fashion is a testament to human ingenuity and aesthetic appreciation. The natural patina that develops over time celebrates the unique relationship between wearer and accessory, making leather not just a material but a living art form.

Whether in vintage pieces passed down through generations or cutting-edge designs from modern ateliers, leather remains a symbol of durability, luxury, and timeless style.